How to Write a Knitwear Tech Pack: The 12 Specs Every Factory Needs

Most first samples come back wrong for the same reason: the factory was asked to guess. A tech pack is not paperwork for its own sake — it is the document that decides whether your quote is accurate and your sample is right the first time. Here are the twelve specifications every knitwear factory needs, and the omissions that cost the most money.

Why the Tech Pack Decides Everything

Three costs are set the moment you send your spec: the quote (fibres and gauge drive price), the sample cycle (missing detail means a second round), and the production risk (ambiguous measurements become a disputed shipment). Factories quote faster and more accurately with a full brief — the spec sheet is the highest-leverage document in sourcing.

The 12 Essential Specifications

#	Spec	What to state
2	Fibre & blend %	e.g. 70% wool / 30% nylon, or 100% cashmere
3	Yarn count / gauge	e.g. 2/48 Nm yarn at 12 gg
4	Knit structure	Plain, rib, cable, jacquard, intarsia, links-links
5	Neckline & shape	Crew, V, mock neck, turtleneck; fitted/relaxed/drop shoulder
6	Measurements	Full POM list with tolerance (±1 cm typical)
7	Size range & ratio	S–XL and the quantity split per size
8	Colours (with references)	Pantone TCX codes or lab-dip-approved swatches
9	Trims	Buttons, zips, labels, hang tags, thread
10	Branding	Woven labels, care labels, placement, embroidery
11	Finishing	Wash, softening, steaming, anti-pilling treatment
12	Packing & compliance	Polybag, carton spec, barcode, certification needs

Specs 1–4: The Fibre and Structure Block

This block drives your price more than anything else. Fibre percentage moves the yarn cost (typically 45–60% of the FOB price), and the gauge moves machine time.

Give the blend as a percentage, not a word. "Wool" is ambiguous; "70% wool / 30% nylon" is a quote you can compare.
State the yarn count and gauge together — 2/48 Nm at 12 gg and 2/48 Nm at 7 gg produce very different garments.
Name the knit structure precisely. "Cable" can mean six different stitches; a reference photo or swatch removes the guess.

Specs 5–7: Shape, Measurements and Ratio

Measurement is where most first samples fail. Provide a full POM (points of measure) list: chest, body length, shoulder width, sleeve length, neck opening, hem width, cuff — each with a tolerance.

Always state the tolerance. ±1 cm is a common knitwear standard; without it, a 1.5 cm difference becomes a dispute.
Give the size ratio, not just the size range. "S–XL, 100 pcs" is incomplete; "S/XL 20, M/L 30" tells the factory exactly what to cut.
Attach a size-set request if the style is new — fit problems are cheapest to solve before bulk.

Specs 8–10: Colour, Trims and Branding

Colour: Pantone TCX is the standard for textiles. Expect a lab dip for approval before bulk dyeing.
Trims: specify button diameter, colour and material. Stock trims are dramatically cheaper than custom tooling.
Branding: provide label artwork, placement measurements and care-label content. Care labels must match the fibre composition — a mismatch is a compliance problem, not a cosmetic one.

Specs 11–12: Finishing and Packing

Finishing: state whether you want washing, softening or anti-pilling treatment. This is where two visually identical sweaters feel completely different.
Packing: give carton dimensions if you have warehouse constraints, and state barcode and labelling requirements up front — retrofitting packing instructions at shipment stage always costs schedule.

The Three Omissions That Cause Most Failures

1. No tolerance on measurements. The factory hits your target and you still reject it — because nobody defined acceptable range.

2. Colour by name instead of code. "Camel" means five different things to five suppliers. Use Pantone TCX.

3. No wash test requirement. Shrinkage and pilling discovered after delivery are your cost, not the factory's. Specify a wash test before production.

FAQ

What is a POM in knitwear manufacturing?

POM stands for Points of Measure — the specific places on a garment where measurements are taken (chest, body length, sleeve, neck opening and so on). A complete POM list with tolerances is the core of any usable tech pack.

Do I need a tech pack for ODM styles?

For ODM you are choosing an existing style, so a full tech pack is not required — but you still need to specify your colours, size ratio, labels and any modifications. The factory's existing spec covers the construction.

What is the most important spec for getting an accurate price?

Fibre blend percentage and gauge. These two determine yarn cost and machine time, which together drive the majority of your FOB unit price.

How do I specify colour if I do not have Pantone access?

Provide a physical swatch or a reference garment and ask the factory to submit a lab dip for your approval before bulk dyeing. Never approve colour from a screen image — monitors vary too much.

Sources

Standard knitwear industry practice for POM measurement and tolerance (widely used AQL-based QC conventions)
Pantone TCX textile colour standard (Pantone LLC)

The Bottom Line

A complete tech pack is the cheapest thing you will ever do in sourcing. Twelve fields, one document, and your quote becomes comparable and your first sample becomes correct. Ambiguity is not neutral — it is a cost that shows up later as a second sample round or a rejected shipment.

LINFAIR works from your tech pack or helps you build one — for ODM styles from 100 pieces or full OEM development. We quote itemized FOB pricing and give photo/video QC at every stage. Send your spec or reference photos and we will confirm feasibility before you commit.